
Garments: Li-Shiuan Chen/ Sean
Film: Stephanie Francis-Shanahan
Words: Léana Esch
Li Shiuan Chen


Li-Shiuan Chen, also called Sean, from Taiwan, has explored ideas of isolation and destruction in his final menswear collection. He was inspired by the novel L’Etranger, written by French author and philosopher Albert Camus, as well as the bikes of London. With a bike being stolen every ninety seconds, Sean used this destructive behaviour as a starting point. The designer experienced isolation himself during his childhood and once again during the lockdown. He has transcribed this feeling into his work by creating designs reminiscent of shields and armour, which protect the wearer from the outside world.
He has created two themes: the first comprising a jacket and a suit, the second with multiple sartorial pieces put together. Made of recycled wire, foam, polyester and wool, the collection features pleating as a foldable armour. As a onetime dancer, Sean is very familiar with body structure and movement. “Dance influences my work because I always consider the movement of the garment,” he says. “I don’t like simple garments; I like them to have a function and to have movement.” Indeed, movement punctuates the collection and the oversized flexible garments. Sean always observes and takes in as much as he can of the world around him. “I observe society,” he says. “I like to observe the interactions between individuals and society. This is what my work is all about.”
OUTSIDER (L'Étranger)
A collaboration between
Central Saint Martins gdfcsm & mafccsm Graduate Diploma Fashion
X
MA Fashion Communication

靈感來源是在倫敦觀察到的眾多被偷去輪胎跟座椅的腳踏車,在對這個社會現象產生好奇心之後上網查資料,每90秒就有一台腳踏車被偷,在這個高失竊率的城市裡,連車主都會自主移除附件就是為了避免犯罪發生,這個現象讓我感受到人與人之間的 疏離感、心之障壁。

我以這些被遺棄的腳踏車的角度看著世界,當我被拋棄後,霎那即永恆,我的時間停止了,但世界依然如常運行,所有的光,都如流光般拉長成為光束,在我所在的平行世界中流動著。


在製作這個系列的時候,我正在讀卡繆的異鄉人跟太宰治的人間失格,兩本書剛好都提到了主角在現存社會中的格格不入,因為無法在社會相容而編織假面具保護著自己。而那種疏離感無法與他人產生連結,使得自我與他人越來越遠,隔閡越來越深,保護自己的那層心之障壁也越來越厚。

我以摺紙呈現那層保護自己的盔甲,在遇到危險時後可以拉伸延展,以網狀材質、拘束帶還有繩縛的細節呈現在格格不入的環境中,自身難以脫離的痛苦,以及運用版型直接讓穿衣者進入角色,感受著局外人心中的那種被拘束著又被隔絕於社會的疏離感之中。





special thanks: Jen-Hao Hsieh, Hsin-Yu Chang